Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Santo Domingo

Today started much like other recent days with the sky overcast as we left this morning. However there was a light drizzle in the air, so we all started out with our pack covers on, and rain jackets or large ponchos covering everything. And that light drizzle continued all morning, and all afternoon, and all evening, and even became a real drizzle several times. It was never very bad, but the sun never came out. And of course the humidity is 100%, and I, at least, sweat with any little exertion, so that even with rain gear, I'm still wet throughout. So while you walk it's not much problem, but if I stop, I would soon be chilled. So I kept walking. Luckily I had planned a short day, and so after 3 1/2 hours of pretty flat walking I got to Santo Domingo de Calzada - St.  Dominic of the Road, and got in line for the pilgrims hostel, picking the smaller one run by Cistertian Sisters rather than the municipal hostel. Of course I was here by 11:30 and they don't open till noon, so it was a cold, chilly wait in the rain. Unfortunately the sisters run a pretty cramped and crowded hostel, but there is a fire burning in the fireplace in the communal kitchen. But lots of wet clothes everywhere.
Santo Domingo de Calzada is a town where the Saint by the same name lived and worked building roads and bridges for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. And then died and is now buried here. About the only thing of interest is the cathedral with the rooster! Yes, a live rooster and a couple of hens make their home in the cathedral in honor/memory of the miracle of the rooster through Santo Domingo's intercession. It's a fascinating story, you should look it up.
The cathedral is also a museum so it cost 3 euros to go in. The main church/nave is transitional gothic, and it is pretty simple as the 17th century rococo altarpiece seems to have been moved to a side chapel. So it is still there with all its bling, and a nice explanation of all its elements. The main museum part is in the old cloister and chapter room. They have many fine pieces - statues and paintings, and other church things. It was a nice place to spend a rainy afternoon.
After eating the pilgrim's menu at one of the local restaurants, I went to the chapel where the sisters sing evening prayer (they're not going to be making any records) and then there was Mass, so that was nice.
I then returned to the dorm to lay on my bed and write this blog, but kept thinking of my wet clothes down on the clothes line, and decided to get up and take them to a laundromats and put them in a dryer, which I am doing, so when I get back to the hostel, I should be able to send this off. God bless you all.
That didn't work as they had bad WiFi. It's morning and I'm trying again.