Fatima III

The inside altar of the New basilica. The golden mosaics are really quite nice in person.

Fatima II

The old basilica from the new basilica.

Lisbon

Wednesday, July 2
We enjoyed spending the morning exploring the sanctuary of Fatima. It is a remarkable place. There is the old basilica and a new modern one, which is quite nice. We got to Mass and spent some time praying in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel.
However, the more people we asked, the clearer it was that there was no early transportation to the Lisbon airport in time for our international departure, except to pay $300 for a taxi which we certainly didn't want to do. So we paid $20 for a bus ticket to Lisbon, found a hotel to stay in, and are only 15 minutes from the airport in the morning.
As a bonus we got to go see the Lisbon Cathedral. It was big and old, Romanesque, with very little stained glass, but impressive none the less. Then we found a restaurant that had a Portuguese menu and had supper. It was very good. So we are back at our hotel, ready to fly home tomorrow.
See everyone soon.
Love Dave

Fatima

We spent so much time getting to Santiago, it was hard to think it was time to go again. We spent some time this morning in the cathedral enjoying the peace and quiet before the crowds arrived. So that was nice. We also knew that there was an English Mass at 10:30 which we wanted to attend. But we also had decided to take the noon bus to fatima, but how long could a weekday Mass take? Surely we had time. But we didn't count on everyone introducing themselves at the beginning, a delightful old Irish priest as the homilist, and thanks and gifts at the end. So it was a little longer than your typical weekday Mass. But still we gathered our backpacks, caught a taxi and made it to the bus station on time. Spent the next seven hours on the bus, and got to Fatima. Amazingly I had been able to find a hotel on the Internet on the bus and book us a room, so we knew where to go when we got here. We found a delightful restaurant for supper, and then wandered over to the basilica, where the rosary was just beginning. They do it amazingly well, in at least 10 different languages, with singing and a procession at the end. So we are looking forward to our day here tomorrow.
May Our Lady of Fatima fill your hearts with joy this night.

Santiago

We made it! Here we are in front of the cathedral, unfortunately mostly covered in scaffolding.

Santiago! !

Monday, June 30
We made it! We are here! I have finished the Camino de Santiago walking over 500 miles in more than 50 days to get here. It has been quite an experience, one which is hard to put into words. I've certainly enjoyed the experience. I feel it has been grace filled. It has been a time of reflection and prayer, a time of meeting new people and experiencing new things, it has been a time of growing closer to God, Christ, and the church.
Today I think we were getting anxious, as we were up and on the trail by 6 am, before the sun was up, so that was nice walking through the fog and watching it get brighter and brighter as the morning moved along. Fr Paul's leg was close to normal as we made good time getting here to Santiago, on foot this time, by about 12:30, late for the noon pilgrim's Mass, but in time for Communion and the incensing with the huge swinging thurable - always exciting!
So then it was competing the pilgrim rites, unfortunately the Western facade is undergoing restoration, so is mostly covered in scaffolding, so it is not possible to touch the central pillar as you enter the cathedral, or greet master Mateo, but we still climbed up behind the altar to greet and hug St James, and then go down to the crypt to reverence his relics.
Then it was the pilgrim's office to get our 'Compostella' or certificate of completion.
Then we explored the old town, had a wonderful dinner with people we had met along the way, and are back in our room for the night.
Now the real Camino begins as we get back to the life to which Christ called us. May your Camino be always Blessed.

Day of rest

Sunday, June 29, Feast of Sts Peter and Paul.
Well, I guess some of the drama is lost if you have been trying to follow this blog, as I haven't been able to get an Internet connection here, despite the fact that we are staying in a private room that advertises WiFi. So you wouldn't have known we were close but not close enough, so we decided to take a day of rest from the Camino and just stay two nights here in O Pedrouzo. So that is where I am again. We will continue and finish the last 12 miles tomorrow, Monday, on my 60th birthday.
So today we decided to take a little bus trip and visit a nearby cathedral, which happened to be Santiago! Fr Paul and I wanted to be at the Peter and Paul Mass and celebration at 10 o'clock this morning, we knew we would not make it walking, so we took the bus. We are glad we did. It was a wonderful celebration, in which Fr Paul and I concelebrated along with 2 bishops and a dozen other priests. It began with a procession with the relics of the apostle around the church, and then incensing with the giant swinging butafumio, then a great celebration of Mass. So that was really nice and a great highlight of the day and almost end of our pilgrimage. Then we toured the cathedral, which is an impressive place with a great high altar, and many side chapels, but honestly people don't come for the building, it's not even really gothic, nary a stained glass window in the whole place, but impressive none the less for the history and its connection with the Camino and the goal of its pilgrimage.
So we are certainly ready to complete this pilgrimage tomorrow, bright and early.
I pray that the Holy Apostles, Peter, Paul and James will bless you and lead you ever deeper to know and love their close friend - Jesus, and the church He established on their foundation.
God bless.

O Pedrouzo

We have slowly come over 13 miles today and arrived here in O Pedrouzo about 4 pm. Fr Paul's shin is still stiff and tender so he still has to take it easy. But we have only 12.5 miles to go to Santiago!!
We got away late this morning as there was a little raining going on, and about the time we really got going it was raining pretty hard. It continued that way into the next town where we happened to see the door of the church open. We, of course, went in and Mass was going on, so we stayed and received Holy Communion. And when we came out, the rain had practically stopped. So the day continued to improve until we were walking in sunshine and it became a delightful day. The path was generally level and we made good time for two guys with aching leg and feet.
So we are again dry, clean and rested. We have to figure out how and when we a can finish these last 12.5 miles and when we want to arrive in Santiago. We know we cannot make these last miles by the noon pilgrim's Mass, and tomorrow is the feast of St Peter and Paul. It should be a great celebration, and we had hoped to be there. So we'll see.

Ribadiso

Today we managed to slowly complete 16 miles. So we are only 26.2 miles from Santiago, or two full days of walking. So we are getting there. Today was generally cool, so very nice for walking, though in the afternoon the sun did come out and it was mostly sunny for awhile. The path was generally level, though there were some 5 rivers to cross, which just meant that there was usually a steep descent to the river valley, followed by by a steep climb back up into the mountains. With Fr Paul's leg still stiff, we went very slowly, and took long breaks, and found several churches open that we stopped in to visit, so it took us almost 10 hours to cover those 16 miles arriving about 5pm here. So we have showered, done our washing, and had dinner, so we are ready for bed. I pray that God will bless you all tonight and always.

Palas de Rei

Thursday, June 26
Another day of pretty good walking. Fr Paul's leg was stiff and aching, but no sharp pain. My feet are tired and tender, but again no blisters. Typical Galacian weather - cool and cloudy most of the day, very nice for walking and no worry about sunburn or heat stroke. The path was generally going up, but never anything too drastic. Lots of small towns, always a cafe to stop at for a little strengthening, and always a lot of people, mostly young people out hiking, and speeding down the path. We wonder about their pilgrimage intention sometime, but we are commanded not to judge, and so we pray that God will touch each of their hearts.
Last night the first hostel we tried was full, but for a little more money we could have a room in the hotel. We took that and it was nice. Today as we were coming into Palas de Rei, someone handed us an ad for a new hostel, promising plenty of beds. We easily got beds, but it is still a crowded dorm with 5 bunk beds, ten people in a room. But we are only looking for a place to sleep, and we'll be gone in the morning.
I realized today that I left Lourdes 50 days ago, and we are on schedule to be in Santiago in 3 days! Wow, it's hard to believe I've managed so long, and that it's almost over. It needs to be over to give my feet and body a good rest, but it's sad to see this time coming to an end. It needs to be over in order to get back to the 'real' world, but this has been a 'real' time of grace from Christ, and I am blessed for having done this Camino. I pray for you all, may God guide and bless your Camino through life.

Portomarin

Wednesday, June 25
Fr Paul got himself some muscle relaxer, some trekking poles, and taped his shin, and was able to walk pretty good. We covered some 13 miles in about 9 hours. But that included our stops, and luckily there seemed to appear about every two hours a nice café to stop at. So we made it here to Portomarin about 4:30. Which is exactly where we hoped to be. We actually are still on schedule to be in Santiago on Sunday. We passed the 100 kilometer maker today and are now at about 93 kilometers, or 57 miles.
The nicest thing today were the nice trails. Some of the paths were just beautiful. They look like they have been around for centuries, and trod by thousands. Lined with moss covered stone walls, abounding with colorful wild flowers, surrounded by majestic Oak and Chestnut trees, they were magical to walk through.
Of course the crowds have indeed increased. Sometimes it seems as if we were on Main Street. But always an interesting encounter or two with someone from somewhere else.
Anyway, it was a long day and we are going to try for the same tomorrow. So I better be getting to bed.
God bless you, you are in my heart and prayers.

Sarria

Tuesday, June 24
We made it into Sarria today. Sarria is just over 100 kilometers from Santiago, the minimum distance one needs to walk to receive their certificate, a Compostella, for making it to Santiago. It is also about a 5 day walk so many people who only have a week start here. So there are a lot of pilgrims in town, but the town is generally prepared for, actually depends on all these pilgrims. We walked into town at 11:45 and saw that there was a noon Mass, and decided to stay, but there seemed to be a larger than usual crowd, and we remembered that today is the feast of The Birth of John the Baptist - the towns patron saint. Soon a band came marching down the street with the towns VIPs, more and more people showed up until there was barely standing room in the small church. So that was nice. After Mass there was of course, the procession with the statue of John the Baptist on a big wheeled platform through the streets. We are happy to have caught some of the celebration.
Fr Paul's leg is getting better, though he's still walking slowly and carefully. We stopped after about 8 miles to make this a short day and take some time to rest. Tomorrow we'll see how far we can get with a full days walking.

Samos II

Monastery church!

Samos

Monday, June 23
Well, Fr Paul's shin was really hurting today, so we didn't get too far. We finished the remaining couple of miles into Triacastela, but all steeply downhill and so really bad for Fr Paul's shin splints. We found a drug store and got some medicine and he wanted to continue on at least for a little bit slowly. We picked a trail was generally level, but a little longer to get to Sarria. Of course no trail is really level, but goes up a bit and then down a bit. This one seemed to go down a bit more than up, as Samos in at the bottom of a valley. It is known for the monastery here. It is actually one of the oldest active monasteries in the whole of the Western world, and one of the largest in Spain. So we are looking forward to taking a tour and joining the monks for Mass and vespers this evening.
Please pray for us and that these bodies will carry us the remaining distance. You are all in our prayers and thoughts. God bless.
Mass was very nice, they combined it with evening prayer. It is just a small community of only about 17 monks, so the singing was a little weak, and in Spanish. The church is beautiful also.
We are now sitting having some supper with a woman Protestant Minister, and a woman and a man from Australia. So it's always an interesting international group of people on the Camino.
Till tomorrow.
We had a little rain here also, actually it poured. And the old monastery building that they made into the pilgrim's hostel is now below street level. Of course b the sewers got clogged and water started pouring into the dorm, which made for an exciting time as everyone started moving their backpacks onto their beds, and grabbing mops, and trying to clear out the drains. So never boring on the Camino.

Fillobal

Sunday, June 22, feast of The Body and Blood of Christ.
It seemed to be drizzling when we got up, and so got out our rain gear, but never really had to use it, and by the time the sun was up, we put it away. It turned out to be a lovely day for walking - never too hot, partly cloudy, great views.
We made it the last 3 miles up to O Cebreiro with no problem (surely you didn't think that was hard, Cathy?) There is a beautiful parish church there, and three  Franciscans there to take care of it. It is the site of an Eucharistic miracle. The story goes that one stormy winter day when no one could get to church, the priest was only half heartedly, or even doubting what he was doing, when a poor peasant arrived desiring to receive Communion. When the priest derided him for coming out in such a storm, the bread and wine changed into flesh and blood, staining the altar cloths. So that chalice and patten, altar cloth and other relics are kept there on display.
Unfortunately, O Cebreiro wasn't quite the highest spot, so the trail was still going up, then down then up again, as mountain trails will do. So it seems as if one climbs the same mountain at least one and a half times! Then we started the descent into the valley to Triacastela.
Unfortunately at that time Fr Paul's shin began to hurt him, and so he was limping and resting all the way down the mountain. We didn't quite make it to Triacastela. But came upon a new hostel (ie not in the guidebook) 3 miles before there and so stopped for the day. Already a nice nap and rest seems to have done wonders for Fr Paul's leg. Pray that it will be well. We are within 135 kilometers of Santiago! My feet are still tender, but no real blisters or problem.

La Faba

Saturday, June 21
Today as we left Villafranca del Bierzo we had three routes available to us. Today's stage has been described as the most strenuous of the Camino as we head up the mountain to O Cebreiro. I think you can ask Cathy about that. Well one path headed up the mountains going over three peaks and was described as the most strenuous and the most beautiful, take water and food, don't get lost as there are few markers. We didn't take that one. The second path, the recommended one, went up over just one peak, and the final option was to walk along the highway but not recommended because of the noise. Of course we took the third option, the shortest, levelest route and found it fine. But of course they all come together in Herrerias to begin the final strenuous climb into O Cebreiro, where we go from 600 meters above sea level to 1300 meters in about 5 miles. We only made it about half way up to O Cebreiro, within 3 miles, and decided to stop here in La Faba. It's actually a rather nice hostel run by a German association in support of the Camino. So I am almost settled in for the night.
The walking was for the most part just a gentle climb, until Herrerias, but going always up. We are back in real forests, not the scrub Oaks and shrubs of the last days, tall Oaks and probably chestnuts, cherry trees are popular too, and coming ripe, so fresh cherries are available everywhere. Several of the small village churches that we went through were open, so that was nice.
Right before lunch stop, it started to rain just enough to make us dig out our rain gear. Then we stopped for lunch, and afterwards, we didn't need it again. Of course, when we hung out our wash, it started to rain, so we moved it inside, then the sun came out and we hung it outside, then had to move it inside again, such that here at bedtime it is still quite damp. So we might be hanging it on our packs as we walk tomorrow, that is if it looks like the sun might shine.
The village priest had Mass scheduled for this evening at 6 pm. He covers some 13 villages, so they don't have Mass every weekend. Of course with Fr Paul and I, and a Franciscan from Poland, there were 4 priests here to celebrate the feast of The Body and Blood of Christ, and an almost full church.
So I'll wish you all a good night for now. God bless.

Sunday 5 pm and still no WiFi. Should be some at the restaurant tonight. Sorry about that.

Villafranca del Bierzo

Friday, June 20
Well I guess I panicked yesterday when my feet were just getting worse and worse. I knew I couldn't rest them from walking, I then I realized I could rest them from carrying my heavy loaded backpack by sending it on ahead with one of the transfer services. So for the second time I did that and sent my backpack ahead, and just walked without it. Well I soon realized that my feet were healing themselves. Mainly from the rest they had last night. So I felt great, and was walking fine, and realized I had panicked a bit, so when we got to where my backpack was waiting for me we decided to do another 5 miles anyway. Of course, that over did it a bit and they are a bit sore again and tired, but again I'm trying to rest them for tomorrow.
Within 2 hours of our start from Molinaseca, we were in Ponferrada, noted for the medieval castle that still survives. I was never impressed by the photos I saw of it, but it is pretty impressive when you see it. Unfortunately at 8:30 am it wasn't open, so we weren't tempted to take the time to go inside.
The church of Our Lady of the Oak was open and there is yet another beautiful basilica. The legend goes that a hunter found this ancient statue hidden in an Oak tree.
The rest of the day was walking. Some village churches that we passed were open, most were closed and so we kept walking. We picked up my pack in Cacabelos, and kept going to Villafranca del Bierzo. It is actually a fairly large town with at least 5 churches, and even an active convent of sisters, or so we heard. We just got to the outside of two of them, both closed.
We had supper at a sidewalk café in the town square, where I tried octopus for the first time - it wasn't bad and I enjoyed it.
Time for all good pilgrims to be in bed, so goodnight to all. May the angels watch over you tonight.

Iron Cross II

Fr Paul and I, with my rock, at the Iron Cross.

Iron Cross

The famous Iron Cross.

Molinaseca

Thursday, June 19
We continued climbing up through the mountains, on some of the most lovely stretches of trail, as the vistas and views of the valleys all around opened up. It reminded us off Texas, or the southwest, no desert but low scrubby bushes and beautiful wildflowers.
The climb led us up to the highest point on the Camino, so I guess even higher than the Pyrenees pass, where long ago a monk placed an iron cross in a pile of stones. It became a tradition for pilgrims to add a stone from home to that pile, symbolizing having left behind your worries and burdens, so as to approach Santiago unburdened and full of joy. So Fr Paul and I both brought stones from home. I picked up a nice rock from the creek behind mom and dad's, and Paul from his garden, and we added them to the pile of stones, as have millions of pilgrims before us. (Cathy did you come this way?)
Then there was the beautiful mountain paths, and then the rather steep descent, which is harder in many ways then the climb up. But we made it fine. Except that my feet are still now developing blisters. I treated them and padded them with everything I had, and they felt fine for an hour or so, and then the treatment (bandages and moleskin and all) itself began to move and be the problem. The more I walked, the more tender they became, not exactly blisters, but hot spots about to become blisters. I need to rest them for a couple of days, but we don't have any rest days, there are only 10 days left of walking to get to Santiago. So I'll have to walk gingerly and limp into Santiago. I don't know what else to do. Indeed a perfect parable of life - sometimes we just have to limp along.
I pray your paths are smooth and your feet pain free. God bless.

Rabanal del Camino

Wednesday, June 18
Today we started the climb into the mountains, though it was a gentle one. Astorga is at about 2600 feet above sea level, and Rabanal, where we are now is about 3700 feet. Though this is not the high point. So today we basically just walked, though I limped a bit having developed a blister, or a very tender spot right on the ball of my left foot behind the toes. So after all these weeks of walking, now my feet are getting sore. But not so sore that we couldn't do some 13 miles, arriving here in Rabanal about 2 pm.
And here we found a gem of a pilgrim's hostel. This is ran by a confraternity of St James de Compostela from England, who have volunteer hoteliers come in for a couple of weeks at a time, so it doesn't get boring for them, they come to serve the pilgrims who stop by. The even had tea in the garden at 4:30. Oh so civilized!
Also there is a Benedictine monastery here in Rabanal, of all places. They have two monks here, maybe six in the summer. Actually they are members of a German monastery who have taken on having a presence on the Camino once again as in the past. They sang evening prayer (7 pm) in gregorian chant, and at night player (9:30)  included a blessing for pilgrims. But they also allowed Fr Paul and I to say a Mass in English in the church. We thought it might just be us, but a group of 18 pilgrims from Houston, along with their priest joined us, and so we actually had a full church. And after all the beautiful churches we've seen, this one was practically still in ruins - with plain, often crumbling rock walls, it was a very special place to celebrate Mass.

Leon San Marcos II

With Fr Paul and myself.

Astorga

Tuesday, June 17
We had a great day today seeing lots of sights. We went through a little town, barely mentioned in the guide books, Villar de Mazarife, saw a nice large parish church, and went to check it out. Closed as are most. However as we were standing there, the gardener came along to spray the mandrone trees, and knew where the key was and offered to open for us. We'll inside was a little gem of a church. There was a beautiful 17th century Renaissance altarpiece, of course, but set in a beautiful contemporary church, with an additional four similar altarpieces, two up front along with the main altar, and two on the side walls. So it is an amazingly beautiful church that no one knows about and that we were lucky enough to have seen.
We continued on to the medieval bridge going into Hospital de Órbigo, where in 1436 a knight defended his honor by defeating 300 other knights. This event was probably the inspiration for Don Quixoti.
We continued on a pretty long stretch of Camino into Astorga, a fairly large city. There are a number of historic churches here including a cathedral. The cathedral is gothic, but a later construction with lots of Renaissance features. While I certainly like the pure, simple gothic, I must admit I liked this cathedral. Unfortunately, the choir (with beautiful carved stalls) is in the middle on n the nave. But overall a beautiful cathedral.
Next to it is what is called the Bishop's Palace, though the bishop never lived there, as it was designed by Gaudi himself, and was probably recognized as a piece of art before it was done, . So it is a museum, though its main exhibit is the house itself. I came around the corner and caught my first sight of the chapel, and it was literally breathtaking. I've seen some beautiful churches, but the light, from the stained glass windows, and the colors, on the walls and decorations, in this little chapel left me speechless, I was truly touched by it.
So an amazing day and past time for bed, so goodnight to all, I'll hold you in my prayers.

Leon San Marcos

Sunday, June 15

Here's that monastery, though the photo doesn't really do it justice. It's quite impressive in person.
Love to all.

Villavante

Monday, June 16
Today Fr Paul and I got a great start on the last 197.3 miles to Santiago, putting in a full day and coming almost 20 miles! We left Leon early enough, getting out of the hostel by 6:45, and passing by San Marco again, it's still impressive even from just the exterior, and then headed across a medieval bridge out of Leon into the suburbs. One of the towns was The Virgin of the Camino. It is the only town on the Camino with a modern church - built in 1961. And it was definitely modern with large bronze statues of the apostles on the front. We went in, and it has a 17th century altarpiece in a modern setting. It was very nicely done. So we sat in church and prayed morning prayers, and about the time we were done (9:10) we see this Dominican priest setting up for 9:30 Mass. Well we decide to stay and introduce ourselves to Fr. Aurelio, and asked for a stamp for our pilgrim's passport. He was happy to stamp our passports and invited us to concelebrate Mass. Which we did, and then he invited us for coffee, and tried to tell us absolutely everything about the church, and their Dominican house for retired priests and so on. He was 84 years old and full of energy and joy, how could we resist. So it was almost 11 by the time we got on the trail again.
We again took the scenic route that would take us away from the busy highways. Which we definitely found, about 12 miles of straight flat gravel road, over flat dry land. The day was sunny and it got hot, but there was always a breeze and the going was pretty nice.
So we made it to Villar de Mazarife by 2:30, but after our 2 day rest and easy morning, we decided to push on. Unfortunately the next hostel was almost 6 miles, or 2 hours away. We really didn't have any problem with that. Perhaps we are really tired instead of just tired, but I know I'll be in bed early, and we have made tomorrow's journey a bit easier.
I'm thinking of all you back home, and have kept you in my prayers. God bless!

Leon III

Well I now have a traveling companion. Fr Paul and I got up and went to the 9 am Mass at the cathedral, or a cathedral chapel. After a trip back to our room to pick up the things we forgot, we headed out to see the sights. The first stop was San Marcos - a monastery that was also the headquarters of the Knights of Santiago, and then later when the Knights and monks were no more, various things, including a military barracks, and horse barn, it is now a luxury hotel. It is really a wonder that anything has survived. But it is a magnificent building, with this long powerful facade, that just evokes the power of the church and the order of Knights that were headquartered there. There is an old church, not part of the hotel and still used for Mass, and a museum that had a lot of great stuff in it. It, of course, has a beautiful cloister, also used by the hotel. So we were impressed.
We then went to San Isidore, where the Blessed Sacrament is on permanent display. And indeed every time I went in there was the Blessed Sacrament in a monstrance above the tabernacle in front of this ornate altarpiece, all aglow, and even people in adoration, despite all the tourists. They too had a museum and a cloister, and a small chapel called the pantheon, where the kings and queens of Leon, when it was a kingdom, are buried. But the remarkable feature were the 12th century murals that adorn the ceilings. They are as bright and vivid as 800 years ago, simply outstanding. The museum treasury also houses the Holy Grail! It is a chalice that was brought from Jerusalem back in the 10th century for safekeeping in Christian Spain. Now some researcher claims it to be the chalice some held to be the one used by Christ at the Last Supper. So who knows?
Finally we got back to the cathedral and went inside again to see the stained glass windows. One always discovers something new and amazing. Then we went to the cloister, of course, and museum. There was so much beautiful religious art, that it all was overwhelming.  Unfortunately the museums didn't allow photographs, and the books they want to sell you are too heavy to add to a pilgrim's backpack, so I'll probably forget all the wonders I saw.
So it's back to the hostel and get ready for a full day's walk tomorrow.

Leon II

I have had a day of rest today, sleeping late, visiting a few sites, taking a long afternoon nap (I mean rested my legs of course for the coming mountains). Because this evening I met my good friend Fr Paul Niemann (St Louis archdiocese) at the train station, and we will be finishing (God willing) the pilgrimage to Santiago together. Fr Paul and I were in the Seminary together and both turn 60 this year, though he was ordained a year ahead of me. So I now have a traveling companion. We had set up this meeting date long ago not knowing where I would be or how long it would take me to get here, so I have been trying to time it so that I would arrive here today also. I did pretty good, only one day early. So I met him at the station, brought him back to the hostel where I found us a room for two nights (we're going to see the sights of Leon tomorrow), then went out to see where some of the sites are, and get us supper. The wind was cool and picking up so we are back in our room, settling in for the night.
May God be with you all this night too.

Leon II

I have had a day of rest today, sleeping late, visiting a few sites, taking a long afternoon nap (I mean rested my legs of course for the coming mountains). Because this evening I met my good friend Fr Paul Niemann (St Louis archdiocese) at the train station, and we will be finishing (God willing) the pilgrimage to Santiago together. Fr Paul and I were in the Seminary together and both turn 60 this year, though he was ordained a year ahead of me. So I now have a traveling companion. We had set up this meeting date long ago not knowing where I would be or how long it would take me to get here, so I have been trying to time it so that I would arrive here today also. I did pretty good, only one day early. So I met him at the station, brought him back to the hostel where I found us a room for two nights (we're going to see the sights of Leon tomorrow), then went out to see where some of the sites are, and get us supper. The wind was cool and picking up so we are back in our room, settling in for the night.
May God be with you all this night too.

Leon

There were only four of us at the hostel in Arcahueja last night, so it's one of the out of the way places. Most everyone else hurries on to Leon. We didn't stir too early, but still I was on the way by 7:45. It only took a couple of hours of walking through the suburbs to get down to the city center. Of course none of the hostels were open yet, but it was a good time to try and orientate myself and find out where I was and where I wanted to get to. It is one of the largest old towns, with remains of the old Roman walls, and remains of the medieval walls. I already visited a couple of small churches and took a peek inside the cathedral. It is indeed beautiful! And it is indeed gothic! Gothic cathedrals were built tall, drawing our gaze upward toward heaven, and there having a vision of light! In the stained glass windows! This cathedral boasts of having over 1800 square meters of stained glass. The only problem with building walls of glass, is that there isn't much to support the weight of the vaulted ceilings. The flying buttresses are supposed to solve that and usually do. But someone, at one time went and added a central tower that the building wasn't designed to hold, and it thus began to weaken the entire building to the point of collapse. I tell you all this so as to say that in the repair work of the 18th century, they removed that central tower, and re-stabilized the whole building, and restored a lot of the original gothic simplicity. For instance they must have at some time installed a bling-bling rococo altarpiece which hid all the stained glass in the apse, that was removed and replaced with a simpler, more original altarpiece which allows the stained glass to be seen, which for a gothic cathedral is very important. Unfortunately they didn't go far enough and they left the choir stalls in the middle of the nave, which blocks, as it were, the aisle, though they did leave a doorway if needed. The choir should have been moved back up front in the apse, around the altar. But anyway, they are beautiful in themselves, all finely carved with apostle or saint or prophet on each stall. It is quite something.
So evidently Spain's first game of the World Cup, which has something to do with soccer, is tonight, so this place promises to be hopping.
I went to 6 o'clock Mass in the cathedral chapel, and afterward sat at one of the sidewalk cafés. All around they were hanging big-screen TVs, it's simply a beautiful evening, and then began covering the tables with tablecloths. I'm still not used to the custom of having supper after 8 or 9 pm, some restaurants don't even open till 8:30. By then the crowds of people were gathering, some of the plazas were indeed hopping, with young people draped in Spanish flags flowing out of every café, and sitting around watching the game.
I think Spain scored on a penalty kick. Well I had enough walking around, and so I'm back at the hostel, in bed resting my legs and ready for sleep.
I pray God will bless your night and give you blessed rest. You are in my thoughts and prayers.

Arcahueja

Another hot day, and early in the morning also. It was the first day that I didn't start out walking wearing my outer shirt, but just a tee shirt, and it only got hotter. I did delay as much as I could getting going this morning. I was the last one up and the last one of of the dorm at about 8 am. Most people wanted to beat the heat, but I knew I had a short day, as I'm still ahead of schedule. Even so it wasn't too hot yet, and seeing a group of people that I had already been acquainted with stopped for a midmorning break, I joined them and waisted even more time. Even so I got here to Arcahueja by noon and settled in, being a nice nap in before going out to explore the little village. Wasn't much to see. So I'm back having supper at the hostel.

Mansilla de las Mulas

I don't know much about the rain on the plains of Spain, but those plains sure are flat, and today they were hot with nary a cloud in sight. I only walked from the pilgrim's hostel I stayed in last night to the very next one, but it was 15.2 miles of old Roman road. Yes another day of gravel on the old foundations laid down by the Romans some 2000 years ago, straight and level and nary a tree the whole 6 hours walking. I could have stopped about an hour earlier with a very slight detour to a very small village, but decided to push on to Mansilla here as it is a little bigger town and there should be some sights to visit this evening. I've already come through one of the remaining gates from the old city walls, and visited the 18th century parish church. So I'll head out to see what other sights there are to be seen.
So there are crumbling walls, one old church is the council chamber, an old monastery is an ethnological museum, which I didn't go in, and the typical narrow streets of an old town. So a nice peaceful place to explore a bit, but the sun is definitely hot, and not something you want to be out in in the middle of the afternoon. I see Mass scheduled for 8:30, so I'll head over to the church for that.

Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

I lolly gaged around the hostel till after 8 this morning, and started down the Camino. There were two routes available to follow. One was a senda along side of the highway, and most of the crowd of pilgrims seemed to be happy taking it. The other route followed the ancient Roman road and was a bit longer and certainly another long remote stretch of trail. Since I have plenty of time right now, I was more than happy to take the remote route along the old Roman road. One has to trust that this is the Roman road as it looks much like any gravel road these days, but route and foundation was laid down more than 2000 years ago. So they say. The walking was level and easy, though not much shade. The land was very flat with either wheat fields or scrub Oak.
So I got here to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos before noon and before the hostel opened at 1.
They have a park with a section of the Roman road and displays showing its constriction. It's very interesting. The rest of the village seems to be nice newly constructed houses, though one doesn't really see a lot of people in them or on the streets. So I've already explored the village and am resting my legs until it's time to look for some supper.
I'm thinking of all of you and missing everyone. Love to all.

Sahagún

DAnother nice day, though a little cooler than yesterday, still nice walking. We are still in an area of nice flat land, farms and fields in all directions. In fact the major building material is mud, as in adobe bricks, or now actual fired brick, as there is no rock. But adobe doesn't last very long, the great monasteries and buildings of adobe built in centuries past have all disappeared.
I arrived here in Sahagún before noon, having passed through 3 small villages with typical brick churches, and all were locked up. Sahagún has at least 3 historical churches, and as many ruins, and absolutely everything is closed on Mondays! So guess which day I'm here! Sahagún was the home of a great medieval monastery, but today there is practically no sign of it left.
In fact the pilgrim's hostel I am in is in the ruins of an old church. I'm laying in the top bunk and staring at the remains of an arch, with a new wooden roof over it.
I hope all the cafés aren't closed on Mondays so that I can find some supper.
Oh, Sahagún claims to be the geographical midway point of the Camino (I think we actually passed the halfway point a few towns back). If anything was open I could get a certificate for being here, but doubt I'll wait around in the morning till 11 when they open. We have to be out of the hostel by 8 as usual.
Also they seem to be preparing for their town festival this weekend (another reason not to stick around) which will include the Running of the Bulls, which is of course, followed by a bull fight! This all in honor of their patron saint - St Facundo!
I pray your Camino is level and smooth. God bless!

Ledigos

It would be very hard (and ungrateful) to complain about today. The weather was practically perfect, not too hot, not too cold or windy, and the Way was level and straight. There's just nothing much to write about. The most exciting thing was that we were walking on an old Roman road, the Via Aquataine. Or at least we were walking on the foundation of the Road laid down by the Romans more than 2000 years ago, and still supporting a roadway even today. So we know that the medieval pilgrim walked this exact same path.
When we left Carrión this morning, the guide books warned that there was a 10.5 mile stretch of the trail without any fountains or cafés. This was supposed to be the hard, boring stretch. Thankfully some enterprising person set up a snack bar about half way along, with cold drinks and sandwiches. So I had a hamburger and Coke. It hit the spot.
I had gotten on the trail early, about 6:45, and reached the town I was heading for about 11:15 and could have stopped, but decided to go on to the next town, and did so. I'm here in Ledigos and resting as there is absolutely nothing here in this tiny village.
My prayers are for you all, that each might receive the fullness of the Holy Spirit this Pentecost and every day.

Carrión Church of Santa Maria

This is the parish church. I'm at a classical guitar concert, you can see him here in the picture. Mass will be next.

Carrión de los Condes

The sky was dark and the weather threatening rain as I left the hostel this morning. So after walking a mere block, I stopped and repacked my backpack with my rain gear on top. Within half an hour I stopped and got the rain gear out of the pack, carrying the rain jacket just in case, as already some very light sprinkles were falling. Happily I never had to put it on. I did stop an hour later and get out my ear covers as it was very windy.
The path today took us on the pilgrim's 'senda' all day. Senda must translate something like walking path. It is a gravel path that runs along side of the highway for walking. It is a little more noisy as you do have cars going by sometime, but not often as it's not a superhighway. On the other hand it's flat and straight. Some people complain that it's boring, but I complain when they send us off on a longer route that's climbing up and down hills, when there's a straight level road going the same place I want to get to. So I guess you can't please everyone.
I got an early start and was on my way before 7, arriving here in Carrión de los Condes by 12:30 having come 12 miles. There was one stop on the way at Villalcázar de Sirga where there's a 13th century Templar church, that is one built by the Knights Templar to serve pilgrims on the way to Santiago. So it's always been an important stop on the Camino. Beautiful altarpiece with St James and dedicated to Mary the White Virgin.
I got to Carrión de los Condes and found a bed at a hostel run by the St Claire sisters of adoration. Entering the adoration chapel there was the largest monstrance I ever saw. It must of been 8 feet tall with the rays around the host at least 3 feet diameter, mostly glittery silver with gold, spotlighted against the 17th century altarpiece, it was quite impressive. Sadly only one sister praying in an otherwise empty chapel.
St Francis was supposed to have stayed here (I think I have his bed) on his way to Santiago in the 13th century, so this has been around also for some time.
The parish church was open and it too has a nice altarpiece - another nice medieval church.
They had a classical guitar concert there tonight, so I caught that, and then there was Mass. Father kindly let me concelebrate this Pentecost vigil, so that was a grace for me, but a help for him just distributing Communion, (I managed that in Spanish! )as the church was full. And after Mass they had a blessing for pilgrims, and almost everyone came forward. That was great to see.
God bless us everyone!

Frómista II

The Romanesque church of St Martin, beautifully restored, and beautiful in its proportions and simplicity. The towers on the front are unique.

Frómista

MiToday was another shorter day, though it was supposed to get hot, and so I wanted to get an early start to use the cool morning. So I was on the Camino by 7am, and got here to Frómista by 11:30. It was a nice morning walk across level fields. About 9am we came to a village and had our midmorning snack. The village church was locked up and so continued on. Walked for awhile along an irrigation canal that was quite an engineering feat when it was built in the18th century. It was supposed to be for both irrigation and transport of the grain, but railroads took over the transportation aspects and it is used just for irrigation or recreation.
Frómista is a little bigger town. There are three old churches in town, two are museums. The first museum was closed due to some sort of problem which I couldn't quite understand. The parish church is nice with its typical 16th century altarpiece. But the real treasure was a little parish museum on the side. For 1€ they had some 18 paintings from a 16th century altarpiece, from the other closed museum in fact. Seems someone tried to steal them in 1980, so they were considered safer in the more active church on display. It's not a big fancy museum so you could examine these up close and personal. From the Flemmish school, they were full of detail you wouldn't see if they were far up on an altarpiece. Simply delightful.
That was all before 1 pm when the hostel opened and I could get settled, get a little nap before heading out to explore the local historical church.
The final church, St Martin, is a very beautiful and pure 12th century Romanesque church which actually gives Frómista some fame. It was made a national monument and restored back to its original state. So it has clean classical lines and proportions, and 12th c. carvings at the tops of the columns. Not a lot special to talk about, but beautiful in its simplicity.
I went to the pilgrim's Mass at St Pedro's at 8pm. Nice but now I need to get to bed real soon.
May God bless you and keep you in his loving hands.

Itero de la Vega

I was on the trail a little after 7 this morning, knowing I had a full days walk, and wanting to make some stops. The first were some ruins about an hour down the trail. And indeed those which were there looked very neat, and made some neat photos (I hope) but there wasn't a lot there, so I wasn't delayed much, and kept on going.
We were heading toward a town called Castrojeriz, which means Jeriz's castle, and you could see the ruins of this castle, at the top of a high hill, from far off. It must of really been something in its day. Thankfully we didn't head up there but to the village in the valley at the bottom. There is an active monastery of Franciscan sisters just a half kilometer off the Camino, so I decided to visit hoping to see the church. Unfortunately the sisters were at Mass, and everything else was closed up. They must sell cookies, but the 'store' wouldn't open for 20 minutes, and I didn't wait, even for cookies. When I got into town and stopped at the first Cafe, lo and behold, there were monastery cookies on the counter, so of course I had to support the sisters.
The churches were disappointing. The first was closed, though I knew it and the third one were already made into museums. The second church, the parish church, was being repaired/restored, and the other museum was also locked up tight. So Castrojeriz is disappointing for seeing the inside of the historical monuments.  Again I wasn't delayed much and just kept going.
Unfortunately my joy at not having to climb up to the castle, was displaced by the dismay of the wonderful vista that opened up before us with the trail heading up the side of the Meseta. It was only about a 300 foot climb, but strenuous is a good description for it. We were rewarded for the climb with some really wonderful vistas of the land all around us. It was really flat up top with fields of wheat and barley stretching off in all directions. Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, and there was an even steeper descent. Thankfully I'm not having any troubles with my feet and going down hasn't been a problem.
There was more generally just flat farmland in all directions. Besides wheat and barley, we saw fields of alfalfa, and some of sugar beets, the white ones.
By noon time the trail seemed to never end, and it was almost 1:30 by the time this hostel came into view. Since my app had me staying at this hostel, I didn't check any others, but this one, the first one you come to when you come into town, is full up, 20 in the dorm, while the others further in town seem practically empty. Oh well, I won't oversleep in the morning.
Did I mention that after a cool but sunny morning it was a warm, almost hot day!
Later that afternoon as I was out exploring the town, one of the local men, a retired school teacher, said hello, then got excited when I answered in English and said I was from the U.S. Seems he was talking an English course and wanted to talk English and as it turned out help with his homework! So we looked over his assignment and then he showed me his house, which was his summer home. It is basically stone, perhaps 200 years old. It has a heating system designed by the Romans consisting of space under the floor in which they build a fire of straw and wood. That warm floor heats the house. Then he wanted to show me his orchard, so we walked to the edge of town were he had a small orchard, mostly with almond trees (he also gave me a bag of almonds, had to crack the hulls, but great almonds). There were also cherry, apple, pear, plum, walnut (certainly not black Walnut like we have, must of been English), persimmon, and one we could never agree on an English translation. So it was definitely nice to talk to a local person who could answer questions and explain things like the difference between wheat and barley.
May God's blessing be upon you all, tonight and always.

Hontanas

Today we encountered the Spanish Meseta - a flat, arid mesa-like area that many pilgrims try to avoid (take a bus instead). From the hostel in Rabé we climbed up almost 100m meters (328 ft) to this flat plain. Thankfully God gave us another day when we didn't have to worry about heat stroke, or sunburn. It was overcast and cool so good walking. I really don't understand those who would try to skip this section. The uphills were gentle with rolling landscape, the flat tops were such easy walking, with vast fields of grain all around, giving a sense of our smallness it's true, and of God's grandeur. So that made for a great day. I've been walking a lot with Skip and Ryan, a father and son from Pennsylvania. We seem to be on pretty much the same pace, at least for now. We've also passed a couple of times, a couple who are walking with their four and a half month old son. Must be the youngest pilgrim we've met.
After two hours walking, we descended those 100 meters on 'Mule killer slope' to a village, only to climb up again and then down to a hostel in a gully there on the Meseta, really the only building within miles (so o of course we had to stop for a snack), back up and finally down into Hontanas were I am staying. It's another small village way off the beaten path, undiscovered except by pilgrims. There's not even a decent road into the village adding to the quaintness and quietness. Thankfully since some way before Rabé we have been away from the busy roads, and on to quiet country lanes. It's been really nice in that sense.
There is a great little 14th century church in the village center with its square tower standing proud over the village. The exterior rock seems to have been restored and on good condition. The interior has a nice rococo altarpiece, but it's easy to see that it's showing its age and could use some restoration to bring back some of the bling to all the gold leaf. Also it, looks like an accumulation of centuries of different styles and stuff without a unified vision. But then they probably rarely have a priest or liturgy. Still the church is the pride of the village.
Maybe we all need to clean out our hearts of the accumulations of hurts and resentments that keep us from truly welcoming Christ.
Hey, I officially have less than 300 miles to Santiago, I've been walking for almost a month, I'm about half way in both time and distance.

Rabé de las Calzados

I wasn't in too big of a hurry to get on the trail this morning as I knew that I again had a short day. I even took a short detour to visit a monastery complex, but I got there at 8:30 am and it didn't open till 10 am. Too bad as it looked like an impressive Romanesque church from the outside. There was also the remains of a medieval pilgrim's hospital which are now a modern University. So some old buildings have been recycled, and kept up, for contemporary use.
The walking was easy, nice and flat and it was actually sunny! And warm enough to walk in shorts and tee shirt! So that was great.
So got here to Rabé de las Calzados at noon, and even had to wait till 12:30 for the hostel to open. The village is very peaceful and quaint. A lovely place to just relax amidst it's ancient buildings and streets.
There really isn't much here, there is a bar with snacks, but not even a little store, so the hostel provides supper (for a price, of course) and breakfast.
But there is a Convent of the Daughters of Charity here. They have an open invitation for pilgrims to join them for vespers at 8 each evening. They were warm and welcoming, as the DC's always are, and offered a blessing for pilgrims, and a miraculous medal of course.
Back to the packed hostel (there are 7 in this room, 25 in all) for another quiet night's sleep. Blessings on you and yours from the Camino de Santiago.

Burgos II

I stayed in Burgos today to see the sights, and because my schedule allowed a rest day. Of course I still had to be out of the hostel by 8 am according to pilgrim rules, so had to find another place for tonight. I just found a pilgrim's pension - almost like a hotel, beds, not bunks, with sheets and towels, but sharing the room with 3 other guys, and a little more expensive.
Then I went out exploring. At St Lesmes I came in on the middle of Mass, so stayed and received Communion to begin this new week, month, and part of the Camino.
Several other churches were locked or closed, but I did climb up to the top of the Hill on which Burgos is built to see the ruins of the old Castle, Fort, and city walls. Couldn't get in, but probably just as impressive walking along the outside and seeing the views from up there. History seems to say that they needed those walls and defenses, and the last occupiers then blew up the place as they were fleeing.
Finally I made it to the cathedral. Man has it got some bling also. I had visited 10th and 11th century cathedrals in France, while this has ancient roots, a lot of it is from the 15th and 16th centuries. Those years really made a difference. This is so much more fancy and refined, with  Renaissance tendencies, and all those rococo altarpieces. They evidently had done a lot of restoration work in the past decades, so it looked to be in pretty good shape. The guide says there are 21 side chapels! That means at least 63 altars (though I didn't count) as every chapel has multiple altars and tombs and monuments. It's just amazing. What I didn't particularly like was how it was broken up into smaller chapels. There was not that sense of largeness, even though it is like the third largest gothic cathedral in Spain. There isn't even a main aisle, as what we would consider the nave, is blocked off for the choir section. I guess that served the liturgy when there were the canons to chant the liturgies, but now you couldn't even have a procession from the main door to the main altar. It's quite unique!  Then there was the cloister, two stories, now enclosed with stained glass, and a museum, and displays and artwork. It probably took me a couple of hours to go through the first time and then went back later again just to be there and try to obsorb a little more. Then I went back for the pilgrim's Mass at 7:30. Pilgrims are called forward at the end of Mass for a special pilgrim's blessing. And there were quite a few of us.
Back at the pension they don't seem to have sold the other beds, so I have the room to myself.
Did I mention that the sun was shining today! Seems to have reached 65 degrees today, a lot better than the 45 degrees we've been having.
I wish you all God's blessings this night.

Burgos

Ages was overcast and windy this morning as I got an early start and headed down the trail by 7am. I figured I had a long day to go. The Camino first headed off to and went through Atapuerca. Where some of our ancestors came from! Did you know that? Yes it is a great archeological site where they say our European human ancestors came from some 800,000 years ago. So that's a great thought. Unfortunately, I didn't take the time to stop, as it really wasn't close to the camino. Googleing it will probably give just as much information.
Then we climbed up to 1050 meters (3,444 feet), the high point on the Camino between the pass and the mountains before Santiago. There is a cross there making the spot, and a labyrinth marked off with stone to walk, but I didn't do that either, but continued down the trail, which was indeed all downhill, and into the suburbs and industrial section of Burgos, the second largest city on the Camino. This is a long and depressing stretch of trail and many people catch a bus and just skip it. I walked it all, though I did take an alternate route that went through a nice parkland running along side the river into the old section. It was nice to see so many Bugosesse out enjoying the day and park. So it was well after noon as I headed into the old part of town, taking my time, seeing what sights I could as I went along. So I'm in Burgos! More than 1/3 of the way to Santiago!
So some time after one I found the main pilgrim's hostel and was able to still get a bed, there are only 150 beds here. I right away ran into young John from Georgia, who was having girl problems, and needed to talk. So we went to lunch and walked around and talked. The cathedral here is really something. I haven't been inside yet, I'm planning on staying here tomorrow also, so I'll see it and the other sights then.
By evening I decided to attend Mass for the Ascension at one of the smaller churches, St Nicholas. So that was nice. That church has a completely carved stone reredos. It is quite unique, I've never seen anything like it.
Then meet up with John and Alec and Monique and ... others who have been together at one time or another in the past weeks. There were 8 of us around the table in the restaurant having the pilgrim's menu.
It was more than two hours before I could get away and get back to the hostel to get some rest. These hostels have a 10 pm curfew, and want everyone out by 8 am.  That's the pilgrim's schedule.
Doesn't look like there's a good enough WiFi connection, so this probably won't go out tonight. So sometime tomorrow.
May God bless you all with all his blessings. Amen

Ages selfie

I was laying in bed as I sent off my last blog and realized it's been awhile since I had sent a photo. So I got out of bed and went out into the cold and wind to take a photo of the church here in Ages. Notice the stork's nest up on top. There's actually a stork up there!
Love to all! !

Ages

No that's not a commentary on how long it feels like I've been walking, but the name of the town I'm in.
I indeed got to bed early last night, so consequently I was awake early and rather than just lay there I got up and was on the road by 7:30. The map had me a little concerned about today's terrain, as it showed a 170 meter climb up a 'hill', back down and up another 100 meters, and even a third down and up again slog. Well either the mountains are getting shorter, or I'm able to do 300 foot climbs like nothing, or they moved the trail, as they really weren't any problem. A little climbing at first, mostly all flat tops, a steep but short down and up again and a long trudge down the other side. An easy walk, but of course it was cool and drizzly, with the sun never breaking through the mist. So God is really watching out for us that we don't get sun stroke.
We came to the village of San Juan de Ortega. San Juan was a disciple of Santo Domingo, and also helped build roads and bridges for Camino pilgrims. There is still a church and monastery where he is buried. The church was very simple, with a very fancy tomb for him. 
I continued on to here, Ages, and found a bed at a hostel by noon. They have a very simple, but beautiful little church here which was actually open, so I'll go pray there.
As grace would have it, I ran into a little old Spanish lady there. She was the perfect image of a bag lady - hat and long dirty coat, missing teeth and a great big smile welcoming and wanting to show everyone their lovely, but needing work church. And I soon realized that she cleaned the church and had the keys, like to the sacristy. I somehow communicated that I was a priest and wanted to say Mass in English and we even agreed on 6 o'clock. At six o'clock she had everything set up, the church bells were ringing, and we had a small congregation of locals and pilgrims to celebrate the Ascension of the Lord. So it turned out really nice for the feast.
I had ordered the pilgrim's menu for supper when I checked in, so I had a big meal of pasta, followed by calamari, I was expecting fried, but this came out as one big baked tuber, but it was actually tender and tasty.
So time again for bed. God bless all of you and keep you safe this night.

Villafranca Montes de Oca

Well these days seem to be falling into a pattern - get up early, walk a couple of hours through some old villages, find a place to stay, relax. And indeed that pretty much was today. I've made it intentionally a short day looking ahead for the coming days and my schedule to meet Fr Paul in Leon.
Last night's hostel was a commercial establishment, in that it had the pilgrim's hostel, a hotel, a cafe, bar, restaurant. It was nice in that you didn't have to leave. Register, get settled and then eat lunch, relax at the pool! (Much too cold! ), and later on eat super, never having to go anywhere but to the next building.  They like most places have a pilgrim's menu - for one fixed price (usually 10€ or $16) you have a pick of a limited number of items including a salad, main course, dessert, wine and bread. And for another 3€ you have your little breakfast in the morning before you set off.
I delayed with breakfast until after 8 before setting off. The church in town was already open as I passed by so got to see their 17th century altarpiece, and many side chapels. Each one uniquely beautiful. Went through three other small villages this morning, they all seemed quiet and sleepy, as didn't even find anything open for a snack until late morn, all had old churches which were locked, and so just kept walking until about noon and got here to Villafranca Montes de Oca. Instead of the large municipal hostel, I chose a private hostel that a big fancy hotel here also offers pilgrims. The place is nice enough, though the dorms are crowded as any other place, and a very small kitchen. I guess they want/expect you to eat in their restaurant. I don't feel like a big meal tonight, so I think I'll just do something simple from the store.
While the walking was nice enough this morning, and we didn't have any rain, it was certainly cool enough and has been sprinkling all afternoon. So good thing there's not much to explore in this town. I'll probably be able to get to bed early tonight.

Belorado

Well today started off much better than yesterday, but nothing to blog about. A little blue sky, but mostly cloudy, such that you never really saw your shadow. I did get warm enough to take off my outer shirt, but put it back on later in the morning as the wind picked up. Dark clouds all a around, but no rain.
The trail was basically level, though we are approaching some mountains, so we are starting to. climb a bit. We passed several villages with medieval roots, but only the first - Grañon - had the church open and had another nice 17th century altarpiece and nice side chapels and all. I guess the 17th century was that time when if you had the means, you added a baroque altar with reredos. There is some amazing work and craftsmanship in those things.
We went through several others also, one medieval town begins to look like every other medieval town. Actually I was planning on stopping one town back, but I got there before noon, it only had one small hostel, while the next town, this one - Belorado - has several large hostels. The one I'm at has room for 98 pilgrims, I know several rooms are already full. Plus it's the first one you come to on your way into town, I didn't want to walk any farther. But now I'm feeling relaxed, I can catch up on emails, and take it easy. I lost contact with my friends, John and Alec, as they were moving at a faster place than I. But if they take a rest or are delayed, I might catch up with them again.
Didn't have a good WiFi connection last night. So on my way out of town I stopped for breakfast at a cafe with WiFi and sent off yesterday's blog. So that was what that was all about. Hope you got it. This should go off early. Love to all.

Santo Domingo

Today started much like other recent days with the sky overcast as we left this morning. However there was a light drizzle in the air, so we all started out with our pack covers on, and rain jackets or large ponchos covering everything. And that light drizzle continued all morning, and all afternoon, and all evening, and even became a real drizzle several times. It was never very bad, but the sun never came out. And of course the humidity is 100%, and I, at least, sweat with any little exertion, so that even with rain gear, I'm still wet throughout. So while you walk it's not much problem, but if I stop, I would soon be chilled. So I kept walking. Luckily I had planned a short day, and so after 3 1/2 hours of pretty flat walking I got to Santo Domingo de Calzada - St.  Dominic of the Road, and got in line for the pilgrims hostel, picking the smaller one run by Cistertian Sisters rather than the municipal hostel. Of course I was here by 11:30 and they don't open till noon, so it was a cold, chilly wait in the rain. Unfortunately the sisters run a pretty cramped and crowded hostel, but there is a fire burning in the fireplace in the communal kitchen. But lots of wet clothes everywhere.
Santo Domingo de Calzada is a town where the Saint by the same name lived and worked building roads and bridges for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. And then died and is now buried here. About the only thing of interest is the cathedral with the rooster! Yes, a live rooster and a couple of hens make their home in the cathedral in honor/memory of the miracle of the rooster through Santo Domingo's intercession. It's a fascinating story, you should look it up.
The cathedral is also a museum so it cost 3 euros to go in. The main church/nave is transitional gothic, and it is pretty simple as the 17th century rococo altarpiece seems to have been moved to a side chapel. So it is still there with all its bling, and a nice explanation of all its elements. The main museum part is in the old cloister and chapter room. They have many fine pieces - statues and paintings, and other church things. It was a nice place to spend a rainy afternoon.
After eating the pilgrim's menu at one of the local restaurants, I went to the chapel where the sisters sing evening prayer (they're not going to be making any records) and then there was Mass, so that was nice.
I then returned to the dorm to lay on my bed and write this blog, but kept thinking of my wet clothes down on the clothes line, and decided to get up and take them to a laundromats and put them in a dryer, which I am doing, so when I get back to the hostel, I should be able to send this off. God bless you all.
That didn't work as they had bad WiFi. It's morning and I'm trying again.

Azofra

Today was a lovely spring day, not too cold, a little misty so that the sun didn't really come out till about 10 when we've already been walking for two hours. But the walking was easy and the scenery was lovely. Some nice vistas of the whole countryside.
So after about two hours of walking we came to a town called Nájera. There is a legend of one of the old kings out hunting with his hawk, which flew into a cave. When the king followed, he found a statue of the Virgin and child. So he had a chapel built over the site. Which of course became a monastery at one time and a church built, and now it's a museum, but very nice. Another great rococo altarpiece, a late (17th - 18th century) cloister, many tombs/sarcophagus, and the statue of the Virgin and child. Like most probably not the original, but still very nice. A nice peaceful place.
I met a couple of young guys last night in the crowd at the hostel. I say young because the majority of people making this pilgrimage are a little older, or even like me - old, or even older and retired, but these two guys, John and Alec from Georgia, are just out of high school, entering college next year. Both are very Catholic and were happy to meet a priest on the Camino. John is planning on studying theology at Franciscan University next year, so he has lots of interesting questions.
It was just a couple of hours down the Camino and we came to Azofra, where the municipal government runs a great hostel - lots of room, only two beds to a cubicle, great patio to sit and enjoy the sun, though by afternoon it's threatening rain again. It's a pretty small town so not much to explore. I already climbed up to the church which was locked. Guess I'll go think about super.

Ventosa

I did end up being the only person staying at the new hostel last night. There is no fairness on this Camino. Last night the hostel had 10 bunk beds in a nice large room. Each bed had a locker (and key) each bunk had a chair, and there was a large bench in the middle of the room. Tonight there are 4 bunks in a small room, no place for packs, you must navigate around people and their things, to get to your bed, and it was already full by 2pm.
The day started out overcast, both weather wise and spirit wise. I can't do anything about the weather, but it affected my spirit, cool, damp, threatening to rain, windy. And a little thing - I lost the case for my glasses. I always carried it in my left cargo pocket, where my glasses would be handy if needed. It weren't there. I unloaded my pack, searched diligently around the bunk, in the lounge, I even retraced my steps to the cathedral (locked) and to Santiago church, and could not find it. Oh well it were lost, I would just have to be more careful with my glasses, which I usually didn't wear on the trail, just when I needed to read a sign or something. But I found it hard to forget about. Plus my leg was hurting a little.  How to put my mind on the important and the present.
The trail started out through the city of course, with its own distractions, and the suburbs, and finally through parkland. It also followed alongside the main highway quite a bit, and whenever the Camino came close enough to the highway to require a chain link fence, pilgrims would weave crosses in the links out of twigs or branches, or whatever they had or could find. There must be something instinctive in a pilgrim, with his load on his back, to identify with Jesus carrying his cross. Plus we are all on the Camino - the Way, and of course, Jesus is the Way. I pray that all the pilgrims walking this Way, will learn to know Jesus who carried their sins to the cross for them.
We came to a little village called Navarette. Typical old section with the village church in the middle. But this little parish church had the most amazing altarpiece. My app describes it as 'the most bling-bling baroque altar on the Camino. Massive, imposing, and breathtaking, with images from the Bible and the coronation of Mary at the top.' Imagine if you can a fancy altar reredos, with columns and statues and carved scenes from the Bible. There's Mary in her Assumption above the tabernacle, with four pillars and a dome, above that the crucifixion, then way up in the half-done of the church the coronation, there's the four evangelists, a multitude of angels and Saints. Then imagine everything (well not the statues or scenes which are painted) covered with gold leaf! And I mean everything. Then add two side altars in exactly the same style, and then join them together with the decorations flowing uninterrupted from one to another, across the entire front of the church and you aren't close to imagining this altarpiece. It is certainly a masterpiece of 16th century baroque art, worthy of any cathedral, but found in the small Spanish village of Navarette.
At a water/rest break about 1 pm, my glasses case miraculously appeared in my right cargo pocket. And the sun came out, my leg felt better, I felt better, and I made it easily here to Ventosa. I pray you pilgrimage is blessed also.

Logroño

The dorm was again awake early, and since we were pretty crowded, when those around me weren't moving to get out of my way, I got up to get out of their way, and so was ready to go by 7:30. I knew I had a short walking day, (it being the Lord's Day - a day of rest anyway) and I was only going about 8 miles to the big city of Logroño - the third largest city on the Camino. So of course I was here by 10 am. Found a pilgrim's hostel, but it wouldn't even open till 1 pm. I went to visit one of the old churches here in the old part of town. I found that Mass was just about to start, so, of course, I stayed. The church was named Santiago, so it had a long tradition of welcoming Pilgrims. Two of the churches have these very fancy, 16th\17th century, gilded, rococo altar pieces. They really are nice to mediate on when one doesn't understand the language being spoken. The third church had managed to avoid such modernizations and preserve its more simple, Romanesque-Gothic interior. So it has its own beauty and quietness. There is also the cathedral. I arrived at the end of Mass, and could not, of course, wander around the church too much. The Blessed Sacrament Chapel was near the door, and so I spent time in there, which was beautiful. Amazingly done. The skill and effort they took in the 16th century.
So after several nights of completely packed hostels, I picked a smaller private hostel that was a little harder to find, being off the main Camino route. The big city has lots of options.  I've heard that the cheaper municipal hostel is filling up, but so far I am the only one here! And they have an electric drier, so I can finally dry yesterday's clothes and today's.
The day's walk started under dark clouds and a little drizzle. I thought of a day without a sunrise, as it was all overcast and looked like storms any moment. Luckily nothing more than that misty drizzle came all morning. But when I came out from Mass, the sun was shining! Not that there weren't those dark clouds around, and by 5pm they are predominating, and a drizzle has started again. It's like Missouri - if you don't like the weather, stick around and it'll change. So I'm feeling at home.
Hey! Less than 400 miles to Santiago! And only 36 more days in which to do them. No problem!

Viana

Today was a wonderful day. The dorm was up fairly early, so I was on the trail by 7:30, and by 9:30 was in shorts and tee shirt, as the sun was generally shining nicely. The Way lead through a couple of villages with medieval churches, the first up on a hill, of course, was locked but a beautiful silhouette against the skyline, and overlooking the next village only a kilometer away. There was a little medieval church similar to the one in Eunate - an octagonal church with a dome and beautiful ribbing in the ceiling.
The Way then led through vineyards and olive groves for about 8 miles to Viana, where I am now.
Viana is another town with an old section and beautiful old church. As I was coming into town I noticed a man with his daughter who was dressed, I thought, rather like the Amish. I hoped it wasn't some sect. However when I got to the square next to the church, I found out there was a Basque festival this weekend and the children would be doing traditional dances in their traditional costumes. So lots of kids were dressed in traditional Basque garb. So I went and grabbed a bed at the municipal pilgrim's hostel and then went back to enjoy the festivities.
Later, since it was still nice out I took my Mass kit and found a quiet picnic table and said Mass on this the anniversary of my first Mass.  Thankful again for all the blessings of my priesthood, and the privilege to be able to celebrate the great Eucharistic sacrifice for all.
After finding some super, Mass at the church was at 8pm, so I went again for Sunday. By the time Mass was over it was pouring outside. Since the little old Spanish ladies just stood in the door watching? waiting? We figured they must know something, so we waited a bit, and it slowed enough to make a dash for the hostel. I hope it will rain itself out by tomorrow.
Love to all.

Los Arcos

As I left the pilgrims hostel (again you have to be out by 8) this morning, there was a very slight drizzle, and lots of black threatening clouds. But I didn't think it would amount to much, so I headed down the trail (not that I had much choice). I wanted to stop in the lovely old church with its great acoustics and say morning prayer there before I left on this anniversary of my priestly ordination, but alas the church was not yet unlocked and so I prayed on the trail as best I could for soon it started raining a little harder, and I had to stop and dig out my rain suit and pack cover and put them on, but within an hour the sun was shining, and within another forty minutes it was raining again this time much harder but luckily I didn't have far to go, only about 8 miles of gentle country road through rolling fields of wheat and I made it here to Los Arcos by 11 am. By noon the sun was shining again, but I still decided to just stay here as it breaks up the coming days nicely. In fact, after a shower and short nap, it was nice enough to do a little extra laundry and have it dry in the sun. Then I'll spend some time walking and exploring the old section.
Los Arcos is another old town with quiet narrow streets, in the old section, with a beautiful 16th century church, over-decorated in baroque style, but overall a stunning effect. They have a pilgrim's Mass there every evening, so I'll go celebrate my anniversary with my Camino family.
I am, of course, extremely grateful for the gift of priesthood. I am grateful for the past 33 years serving God and the Church. I am grateful for all the people God has put in my life, all those who have loved and supported me in my ministry, all those who have been part of my life, especially as parishioners, and as fellow workers in God's vineyards. Thanks to all who have made these past 33 years such a grace-filled adventure. May God continue to pour out his blessings on you. Please continue to pray for me that, renewed by this Camino, I may continue to serve God, His church, and His people with faith, joy, and enthusiasm.

Irache wine fountain

Here I am tasting the wine from the fountain, using my shell from my backpack.  It's supposed to be online, so try a search for the Irache wine fountain.

Villamayor de Monjardin

Yesterday's potential for blue skies seemed to carry over into today, but the black clouds soon won out. Cool and overcast the rest of the day. Even now at 3:30 it's almost too cool to go out exploring this little village. They've even lit a fire in the common room.
I left Lorca by 8am. It was a pretty easy walk to Estella, one of the larger towns on the way, and I wanted a little time to explore. Entered across a medieval bridge, of course. The first church I found was locked, but had an impressive exterior. The next church, San Pedro, was atop a hill, so had an impressive set of stairs to climb, nice interior, and an impressive cloister, or the part that remained, as half had been destroyed.
Across the street was the palace of the Kings of Navarre, now an art museum. Free admission, but I wasn't impressed, guess I don't know Spanish paintings.
Up the road is the monastery of Irache with its famous wine fountain. Yes, there is a fountain that provides wine (or water) for the thirsty pilgrim. Even to my uncultured tastes, it wasn't of the finest quality, but it was nice none the less. The monastery church and cloister was very austere, yet impressive.
So after all that sightseeing, there were still a few kilometers to go before finding a place to stay here in Villamayor de Monjardin. Maybe I'll go see if it's warmed up any.
Anyway, I always planned on being on / ending this pilgrimage on my birthday. However, I never give much thought to my ordination anniversary. Today is my 34th anniversary of being ordained as a deacon. For Priests, deaconate is seen as transitional, and so somehow less important or even temporary. I always appreciated the fact of being ordained a deacon; of being ordained to serve. So today I have walked in Thanksgiving for my ministry of service, and prayed for all the deacons who so faithfully serve the church.
5:15 pm and it's finally raining a bit. Guess it's a good time for it sitting warm around a fire. Maybe it will empty the heavens for tomorrow. But I can't get down to the bar for a WiFi spot and send this. It will go when it goes.

Observations

Bright red poppies and stern purple milkweed growing together
Acres of fields and orchards, acres of asphalt and concrete, an ant colony finds it's doorway in a crack of the concrete
Swallows darting and dancing in the sky, seeking a meal, keeping us free of bugs
Like the swallow in the psalm building its nest in the temple, bees find their home in a crack in the wall of the church
Old twisted olive tree, its wood rotted and frail, yet sap and life flows through its limbs
An ancient olive grove - such witnessed Christ's agony
Children playing in the plaza on new playground equipment with soft foam underfoot, and the ancient water fountain gurgling nearby -  life giving and dangerous
Grape vine with a tall trunk and branches like arms clinging to the side of a house

Lorca

As has been pretty common, the pilgrim hostel here wants people gone by 8 am (so that they can get ready for the next group, I guess). So people are up by 6:30 or 7 am and on the trail. So with nothing else to do, I too was on the trail by 7:45. The weather was cool, windy, overcast and looking like rain with dark threatening clouds. However it never did rain, and the sun even came out for awhile, so walking wasn't too bad. The terrain was pretty level, so no mountains today, but the trail ran through several villages built atop hills. They built them there for defense - so that they can see the enemy coming from afar. Which was fine except that the defensive aspect is no longer needed and the poor pilgrim has to climb up them and through them.
We first went through a town called Puente la Reina, which translates simply 'Queen's Bridge'. The Queen, back in the 11th century commanded that a bridge be built there for the ease of pilgrims. A medieval pilgrim could sleep under the stars, if needed, but a raging river, or unscrupulous ferrymen, could end a pilgrim's journey. So bridges were very important. Also many have survived, the craftsmanship is amazing, so we know that the medieval pilgrim also passed exactly over that spot, and we walk in their footsteps. There were a couple of medieval churches there, but all locked up.
From there we went through towns named Maneru and Cirauqui and finally Lorca. All hilltop towns. All connected by medieval bridges, and even a section of Roman road! Built by the Romans over 2000 years ago! So while the modern way has to meander around the superhighway, and over country roads, through olive groves and grape vineyards, we know that at times we walk the same ground as millions of pilgrims before us.
So I have ended the day's pilgrimage about 1:30 in a small pilgrim's hostel in Lorca. Since I (thanks bishop!) have given myself plenty of time, I don't have to do so many miles each day and can be one of the first to stop.  So I have plenty of time to get a shower and rest and walk a bit, find something for supper and be in bed early. As I sit or explore the village, I still see pilgrims coming through looking for a meal or bed, or heading determinately somewhere else. Seems the hostel also runs a restaurant, as a cook is singing outside my room. So it should be an interesting night.
By evening time all the rain clouds have disappeared, just blue sky and fluffy patches of white clouds drifting in the sky. A promise for a better tomorrow. A perfect time to think and reflect, and maybe a few observations.

Meets the Way of the Stars

At the windy top!

The Way of the Wind

I knew by the guide books that today we had a 1000 foot climb up a ridge that is called the way of the wind. A ridge so constantly windy that there are a whole line of huge, sleek, modern windmills, or wind turbines, generating electricity. So of course, the weather was particularly windy, cool, and overcast, threatening rain at any moment. The cool weather is nice for hiking, but I was soon sweating up the hill, with the wind blowing, and constantly stopping to adjust layers. When I finally reached the top of the Hill of Pardon, (where one lets the wind carry away all anger and resentment), it was so windy and cold one didn't pause very long, a few quick photos, and then the steep decline. One wants to pause there for the magnificent views, but also there is a large metal sculpture of pilgrims on the way entitled: Where the Way of the Wind meets the Way of the Stars. The way of the stars refers to the camino de Santiago Compostela, Compostela meaning the field of stella - stars.
The rest of the way down continued in a similar manner, but no rain! I then took a little detour to a little 11th century church, St Mary Eunate. Probably built by the Knights Templar, it is a unique octagonal church, surrounded by a series of 33 arches.
According to the guide book there was supposed to be a small pilgrim's hostel there, where I was hoping to end my day, but alas the book is wrong, no hostel. Well it was always a small hostel and I knew I might not get one of the places anyway, so on to plan b and continue to the next village, a little place called Obanos. I was here by 1:30, still no rain, and got a place at the hostel.
Seems like a neat little village with a large stone church, and narrow cobblestone streets. Guess I'll go explore.

Pamplona

This morning could be called an even more perfect day! The sun was shining, and the air was calm and warm. I had my outer layers of and pants legs unzipped within 15 minutes of starting out today. It was nice and I didn't have far to go. Within an hour I was at the outskirts of Pamplona, and within another at the city center, the old town. It still has a lot of the old city walls built to protect it in ages past. Quite a lot of work went into building such a defense, and impressive.  Pamplona, as you know, is famous for the running of the Bulls. No I didn't get trampled by a bull, that's during the festival of San Fermín in July, which was made famous by Ernest Hemingway in his novel "The Sun also Rises". But no I didn't go see his statue, or the bull fighting arena. Instead I went to the cathedral. It is a nice Gothic structure, but full of fancy Boroque altarpieces and other decorations. Since there is a cloister attached, it must of been part of a monastery once. It is quite fancy, so probably later medieval construction. Today the church is an active cathedral, but the rest a museum. Too much to see, so I hurried on to another pilgrim church St. Cernín. Very nice also, though all that Boroque and Renaissance decoration is a little too much for my taste sometime.
So I continued on through Pamplona into the suburbs. Found a pilgrim's hostel and am resting.
The first big city - Pamplona - completed!
So the morning was perfect, but this afternoon the wind has definitely picked up, and some clouds are moving in, so who knows what tomorrow will bring. Perhaps our run of good weather has run out?

Zabaldica

Some of the group after Mass.

Zabaldica

Sunday morning and the people around me in the dorm were quiet and slept well past 6:30, breakfast was at 7 am, or 7:30, as they had a small dining room. I had signed up for the later time, and still was on the trail a little after 8 am. Today the weather could be considered perfect! The sun was shining, there was no wind, and the breezes were warm. I had my outer layers off within half an hour, and the Way was level (for the most part). I guess I should have kept walking, but after 4 hours I came to Zabaldica, with a 13th century church, and a small community of Precious Blood sisters, and a pilgrim's hostel. They are just a little bit out of the way, and up on top of a short but steep hill, so not a lot of pilgrims make the extra effort, but they are very welcoming. When sister realized I wanted to stay already (so early in the day), she insisted on fixing me something for lunch, then got me settled in. They were also excited to meet someone from St Louis and even Missouri, who knows of their Saint Philippine and been at St Ferdinand where she lived and taught.  So I've had a shower, a nap, and am sitting in the shade with a glass of cool water. Ah, life is good.
As I got here this noon, Dana and his violoncello, and his film crew were just leaving. He had had another of his concerts here in the church last night, and will have another down the trail tonight. Alas, I'm going to stay here. So we are almost moving at the same pace. Maybe I'll catch another of his performances along the Way.
Even though I had been at Mass last night, and the sisters had gone this morning, (they have daily Mass, but not on Sunday) I still decided to say Mass. The sisters were happy to go again. We had 3 Spanish sisters, only one understood English and did a little translating, plus two pilgrims from Hungry, and one from Italy. So it was quite an international affair. There is only one additional pilgrim here tonight, from England, so I have a room to myself. I guess it is possible to get away from the crowds if one picks the right places.