Saturday, June 21
Today as we left Villafranca del Bierzo we had three routes available to us. Today's stage has been described as the most strenuous of the Camino as we head up the mountain to O Cebreiro. I think you can ask Cathy about that. Well one path headed up the mountains going over three peaks and was described as the most strenuous and the most beautiful, take water and food, don't get lost as there are few markers. We didn't take that one. The second path, the recommended one, went up over just one peak, and the final option was to walk along the highway but not recommended because of the noise. Of course we took the third option, the shortest, levelest route and found it fine. But of course they all come together in Herrerias to begin the final strenuous climb into O Cebreiro, where we go from 600 meters above sea level to 1300 meters in about 5 miles. We only made it about half way up to O Cebreiro, within 3 miles, and decided to stop here in La Faba. It's actually a rather nice hostel run by a German association in support of the Camino. So I am almost settled in for the night.
The walking was for the most part just a gentle climb, until Herrerias, but going always up. We are back in real forests, not the scrub Oaks and shrubs of the last days, tall Oaks and probably chestnuts, cherry trees are popular too, and coming ripe, so fresh cherries are available everywhere. Several of the small village churches that we went through were open, so that was nice.
Right before lunch stop, it started to rain just enough to make us dig out our rain gear. Then we stopped for lunch, and afterwards, we didn't need it again. Of course, when we hung out our wash, it started to rain, so we moved it inside, then the sun came out and we hung it outside, then had to move it inside again, such that here at bedtime it is still quite damp. So we might be hanging it on our packs as we walk tomorrow, that is if it looks like the sun might shine.
The village priest had Mass scheduled for this evening at 6 pm. He covers some 13 villages, so they don't have Mass every weekend. Of course with Fr Paul and I, and a Franciscan from Poland, there were 4 priests here to celebrate the feast of The Body and Blood of Christ, and an almost full church.
So I'll wish you all a good night for now. God bless.
Sunday 5 pm and still no WiFi. Should be some at the restaurant tonight. Sorry about that.