Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Lorca

As has been pretty common, the pilgrim hostel here wants people gone by 8 am (so that they can get ready for the next group, I guess). So people are up by 6:30 or 7 am and on the trail. So with nothing else to do, I too was on the trail by 7:45. The weather was cool, windy, overcast and looking like rain with dark threatening clouds. However it never did rain, and the sun even came out for awhile, so walking wasn't too bad. The terrain was pretty level, so no mountains today, but the trail ran through several villages built atop hills. They built them there for defense - so that they can see the enemy coming from afar. Which was fine except that the defensive aspect is no longer needed and the poor pilgrim has to climb up them and through them.
We first went through a town called Puente la Reina, which translates simply 'Queen's Bridge'. The Queen, back in the 11th century commanded that a bridge be built there for the ease of pilgrims. A medieval pilgrim could sleep under the stars, if needed, but a raging river, or unscrupulous ferrymen, could end a pilgrim's journey. So bridges were very important. Also many have survived, the craftsmanship is amazing, so we know that the medieval pilgrim also passed exactly over that spot, and we walk in their footsteps. There were a couple of medieval churches there, but all locked up.
From there we went through towns named Maneru and Cirauqui and finally Lorca. All hilltop towns. All connected by medieval bridges, and even a section of Roman road! Built by the Romans over 2000 years ago! So while the modern way has to meander around the superhighway, and over country roads, through olive groves and grape vineyards, we know that at times we walk the same ground as millions of pilgrims before us.
So I have ended the day's pilgrimage about 1:30 in a small pilgrim's hostel in Lorca. Since I (thanks bishop!) have given myself plenty of time, I don't have to do so many miles each day and can be one of the first to stop.  So I have plenty of time to get a shower and rest and walk a bit, find something for supper and be in bed early. As I sit or explore the village, I still see pilgrims coming through looking for a meal or bed, or heading determinately somewhere else. Seems the hostel also runs a restaurant, as a cook is singing outside my room. So it should be an interesting night.
By evening time all the rain clouds have disappeared, just blue sky and fluffy patches of white clouds drifting in the sky. A promise for a better tomorrow. A perfect time to think and reflect, and maybe a few observations.